Common A/C Problems and What You Can Do
The A/C problems we see most often, what usually causes them, what you can safely check yourself — and how we fix each one.
Several of the checks below take two minutes and cost you nothing, and a few of them will fix the problem outright. Others are simply worth doing to keep the house livable until we arrive. What to leave alone: refrigerant and any electrical work inside the equipment. Refrigerant is federally regulated, and a system that needs it has a leak that needs a real repair. The capacitors inside an A/C hold a dangerous charge even after the power is shut off. If that is where you have landed, stop there and book an A/C repair — the work is done by a licensed HVAC technician who handles every call personally. Weekdays 7am to 6pm are our regular $80 service call. Weeknights until 10pm and all weekend add $40.
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What’s wrong — and what you can do
The A/C is blowing warm air and the house is not cooling
What you can try: confirm the thermostat is set to Cool with the target temperature below the room temperature, walk outside and check that the condenser is actually running, and replace a dirty air filter, since a clogged filter is a surprisingly common cause. Then give the system 15 to 20 minutes before you judge it.
How we handle it: warm air usually points to low refrigerant from a leak, a failed capacitor or compressor, a frozen coil, or a condenser fan that has stalled. We diagnose the actual cause rather than guessing at it, and we repair the common failures on the spot that same evening. When a system truly needs replacing, we explain the diagnosis and why replacement is the better choice, and we can point you to a trusted local installation company if you’d like. See A/C repair.
The A/C is frozen or iced over
What you can do, and this one matters: turn the thermostat off for cooling but set the fan to On, because running the blower without cooling melts the ice considerably faster. Let it thaw completely before we come out, which can take a few hours, since running a frozen system can damage the compressor. While it melts, keep an eye on the air handler and the drain pan and make sure the water is not running onto the floor or through the ceiling. Lay down towels and empty the pan if you need to. Swap a dirty filter as well, because restricted airflow is one of the top causes of freezing.
How we handle it: we find out why it froze in the first place, which is either an airflow restriction at the filter, the coil or the blower, or low refrigerant from a leak. Then we fix that root cause so the system does not ice up on you again next week.
It is hot inside and the outdoor unit is not running
What you can do to stay comfortable: set your thermostat fan to On, which is fan-only mode. Even with the condenser down, running the blower keeps air circulating through the house, evens out the hot and cool spots, and keeps the place from feeling stuffy while you wait for us. It will not lower the temperature, but moving air genuinely helps. While you are at it, check that the outdoor disconnect and the breaker have not tripped.
How we handle it: a condenser that will not start is usually a failed capacitor or contactor, a burned-out fan motor, or a control problem. All of those are common, straightforward repairs once we are on site, and most of them we finish the same evening.
Water leaking around the furnace / air handler
What you can do: turn the system off to stop more water from collecting, then mop up what is already there. The most common cause is a clogged condensate drain. If your system has a float safety switch — and we add one where it is missing — it may have shut the A/C down on purpose to prevent an overflow.
How we handle it: we clear and flush the drain line, check the pan and float switch, and make sure it drains properly so it won’t shut down or cause water damage.
The A/C will not turn on at all
What you can try: put fresh batteries in the thermostat and make sure it is set to Cool, confirm that the breakers for the A/C and the furnace or air handler have not tripped, and check that the furnace door panel is latched all the way shut, because a safety switch cuts power when it is loose. Some systems also have a condensate float switch that disables cooling whenever the drain is clogged.
How we handle it: we confirm power and controls first, working through the thermostat, wiring, transformer, control board and safety switches, before we recommend a single part. You see the readings and exactly what we found, so nothing about the diagnosis is a mystery.
Weak airflow or some rooms won’t cool
What you can try: replace the filter, make sure the supply and return vents are open and not blocked by furniture or rugs, and set the thermostat fan to Auto, or to On if you want more circulation between cycles.
How we handle it: weak airflow is usually a dirty blower wheel, a dirty coil or a duct problem rather than the A/C itself. We measure static pressure to find where the restriction actually is instead of guessing, and an Airflow Diagnostic is $80. There is more on our airflow work.
Strange noises or smells
What you can do: if you smell something burning or electrical, shut the system off at the thermostat and call us. A musty smell is usually a dirty coil or a dirty drain, and a rattle is often nothing more than a loose panel. If you smell gas, leave the house and call your gas utility from outside before you call anyone else.
How we handle it: we trace the noise or the smell back to its source rather than guessing at it, and during the repair we run an inspection camera inside the equipment to look for the buildup that quietly costs you efficiency and air quality.
Tried the checks above and it is still not right? That is exactly the call we take, and the $80 service call is credited toward the repair.
Want to understand your system better? Read our HVAC systems guide.
Furnace trouble gets the same service
Cold weather arrives early along the Wasatch Front, and a furnace that quits on a January night is every bit as urgent as an A/C that quits in July. Here are the three checks worth doing before you call, and the same evening and weekend rates apply to furnace repair.
The furnace will not turn on
Set the thermostat to Heat with the target above the room temperature, put in fresh batteries, check the breaker, and make sure the furnace door panel is latched shut. A safety switch cuts all power to the furnace when that panel is loose.
It runs but blows cold air
Replace a dirty filter first, then listen for the burners lighting when it starts. A blower that runs without a burn usually means an ignition or flame-sensor problem, and that is a repair we finish on site most nights.
It starts, then shuts right off
Short cycling is normally a clogged filter starving the furnace of air, a dirty flame sensor, or a blocked flue. Change the filter and clear anything stacked against the return, and call us if it keeps happening.
If you smell gas at any point, stop troubleshooting, leave the house, and call your gas utility from outside.
Common A/C repair questions
Should I keep running my A/C if it is frozen?
No. Turn the cooling off and set the thermostat fan to On so the ice can thaw, because running a frozen system can damage the compressor. Let it melt completely, which usually takes a few hours, before we arrive. While it melts, make sure the water is draining and is not running onto the floor or through the ceiling.
My outdoor unit is not running and the house is hot. What can I do right now?
Set your thermostat fan to On, which runs the furnace blower without cooling. It will not lower the temperature, but moving air evens out the house and keeps it from feeling stuffy while you wait. Also check that the outdoor disconnect and the breaker have not tripped.
Can I add refrigerant to my A/C myself?
No. Refrigerant is federally regulated and requires EPA certification to purchase and handle, and a system that is low on refrigerant almost always has a leak that needs to be repaired. If you are planning to replace the system soon, we can do an EPA-compliant top-off to get you through the season; otherwise we find and fix the leak.
Why did my A/C shut itself off?
The most common cause is a clogged condensate drain that tripped the float safety switch, followed by an airflow or overheating problem or a tripped breaker. Check the air filter and the breaker first. If it keeps shutting down, book a repair and we will find the cause.
My furnace runs but blows cold air. What should I check?
Check the air filter first, then listen for the burners lighting when the furnace starts. A blower that runs without a burn usually points to an ignition or flame-sensor problem, which is a repair we handle on site most nights. Furnace emergency repair runs the same $80 as air conditioning.
Can Canyon Comfort come out the same day?
Often yes. Our windows are Monday through Friday 7am to 10pm, Saturday 8am to 10pm and Sunday 8am to 9pm. The service call is $80 weekdays to 6pm, $120 weeknights and weekends, and the $80 is credited toward the repair. Call or text 801-960-5925 and we will tell you the soonest we can get there, anywhere from Ogden to Provo.
Are you a 24-hour emergency HVAC company?
We work evenings and weekends as part of the normal schedule — weekdays 7am to 10pm, Saturday 8am to 10pm, and Sunday 8am to 9pm. We are not a 24-hour company, and nothing runs past 10pm. If it is a gas leak or suspected carbon monoxide, leave the house and call 911 or your gas company first.
Do you charge extra for evening or weekend service?
Yes, a little. Weekdays 7am–6pm are $80. Weeknights until 10pm and all weekend add $40, so $120. Either way, the $80 is credited toward the repair.
Do you replace whole heating and cooling systems?
No, we are a repair-only HVAC service. Our goal is to keep your system going for as long as repairing it still makes sense. When the day comes for a new system, we can recommend trusted local contractors to handle the installation. If we tell you it’s time to replace, it’s because we genuinely believe it’s time and wouldn’t feel right selling you a repair that could cost you more in the long run.
Let us get your system running again
Book a repair, weekdays 7am to 10pm or on the weekend, and we will diagnose the real cause, show you exactly what we found, and fix it on the spot when it is a repair we do. When a system truly needs replacing, you hear it straight: the diagnosis, why a new system is the best option, and — only if you ask — a trusted local installation company. Rated 5.0 on Google, licensed and insured, and serving the Wasatch Front and Wasatch Back from Ogden to Provo and Grantsville across to Coalville and Heber.
Portable A/C rental while you wait on a repair
Usually same-day: two high-efficiency portable units and a portable swamp cooler, $150 plus $20 a day.